Fancy some ant yoghurt? What if it was prepared by a Michelin chef?

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Four live forest ants in a warm jar of milk. CREDIT: David Zilber
Four live forest ants in a warm jar of milk. CREDIT: David Zilber

European scientists have recreated a nearly forgotten yoghurt recipe that was once common across the Balkans and Turkey - using ants. The team visited a village in Bulgaria, where the tradition persists, and tried it out. They added four ants to a jar of warm milk and tucked it into the ant mound to ferment overnight. The next day, the milk had thickened and started to taste like yoghurt - slightly tangy, herbaceous, and with flavours of grass-fed fat, they say. Back in the lab, they found the ants make yoghurt because the insects produce formic acid to defend themselves and carry bacteria that produce acids which make milk thicken. Together, this breaks down milk proteins, producing yoghurt. Next, the team partnered with Michelin-starred chefs at Copenhagen restaurant Alchemist, who served guests several concoctions including yoghurt ice-cream sandwiches shaped like an ant and pungent, tangy mascarpone-like cheeses, washed down with milk wash-clarified cocktails, all of which used the insects as a key ingredient. The authors say their work highlights the importance of preserving traditional practices. "Maybe listen a little closer when [your] grandmother shares a recipe or memory that seems unusual,” says lead author Veronica Sinotte.

Media release

From: Cell Press

Making yogurt with ants

Researchers recreated a nearly forgotten yogurt recipe that was once was once common across the Balkans and Turkey—using ants. Reporting in the Cell Press journal iScience on October 3, the team shows that bacteria, acids, and enzymes in ants can kickstart the fermentation process that turns milk into yogurt. The work highlights how traditional practices can inspire new approaches to food science and even add creativity to the dinner table.

“Today’s yogurts are typically made with just two bacterial strains,” says senior author Leonie Jahn from the Technical University of Denmark. “If you look at traditional yogurt, you have much bigger biodiversity, varying based on location, households, and season. That brings more flavors, textures, and personality.”

Red wood ants (Formica species) can be found crawling through the forests of the Balkans and Turkey, where this yogurt-making technique was once popular. To better understand how to use these ants to make yogurt, the researchers visited co-author and anthropologist Sevgi Mutlu Sirakova’s family village in Bulgaria, where her relatives and other locals remember the tradition.

“We dropped four whole ants into a jar of warm milk by the instruction of Sevgi’s uncle and community members,” recalls lead author Veronica Sinotte of the University of Copenhagen, Denmark. The jar was then tucked into an ant mound to ferment overnight. By the next day, the milk had started to thicken and sour. “That’s an early stage of yogurt, and it tasted that way as well.”

The researchers, who tested the yogurt during their trip, described it as slightly tangy, herbaceous, and having flavors of grass-fed fat.

Back in Denmark, the team dissected the science behind the ant yogurt. They found that the ants carry lactic and acetic acid bacteria. Acids produced by these bacteria help coagulate the dairy. One type of these bacteria was similar to that found in commercial sourdough.

The insects themselves also help in the yogurt-making process. Formic acid, which is part of the ant's natural chemical defense system, acidifies the milk, affects its texture, and likely creates an environment for yogurt’s acid-loving microbes to thrive, say the researchers. Enzymes from the ant and the microbes work in tandem to break down milk proteins and turn milk into yogurt.

The researchers compared yogurts made with live, frozen, and dehydrated ants. Only live ants seeded the right microbial community, meaning they are best suited for yogurt making. However, the team found that caution was necessary to make sure the ant products were safe to consume: live ants can harbor parasites, and freezing or dehydrating ants can sometimes allow harmful bacteria to flourish.

To test out the contemporary culinary possibilities of ant yogurt, the team then partnered with chefs at Alchemist, a two-star Michelin restaurant in Copenhagen, Denmark, who gave the traditional yogurt a modern twist. They served guests several concoctions including yogurt ice-cream sandwiches shaped like an ant, mascarpone-like cheeses with a pungent tang, and cocktails clarified with a milk wash—all inspired by ant yogurt and using the insect as a key ingredient.

“Giving scientific evidence that these traditions have a deep meaning and purpose, even though they might seem strange or more like a myth, I think that’s really beautiful,” says Jahn.

“I hope people recognize the importance of community and maybe listen a little closer when their grandmother shares a recipe or memory that seems unusual,” says Sinotte. “Learning from these practices and creating space for biocultural heritage in our foodways is important.”

Multimedia

Four live forest ants in a warm jar of milk
Four live forest ants in a warm jar of milk
Jar of milk incubating in a red wood ant colony
Jar of milk incubating in a red wood ant colony
Researchers tasting ant yogurt
Researchers tasting ant yogurt
Sample collected from ant yogurt fieldwork in Bulgaria
Sample collected from ant yogurt fieldwork in Bulgaria
Retrieving ant-fermented milk
Retrieving ant-fermented milk

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iScience
Organisation/s: University of Copenhagen, Denmark, Technical University of Denmark, Denmark
Funder: This work was supported by the Danish National Research Foundation Center for Evolutionary Hologenomics and the Novo Nordisk Foundation.
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